October 27, 2005
first day in Bangkok
Arrived in Bangkok today. First stop, find a guest house. Trying Bamboo guesthouse. B150 about four dollars. Clean, quiet, not the friendliest but will due for a few nights. Second stop, Thai massage. Five dollars worked out the kinks of being stressed for a week, sitting in an airplane seat for way too long, and carrying a heavy duffle bag on one shoulder, then the other.
Felt great after. Third stop, my favorite veggie Thai restaurant. For two and a half dollars, I got a bowl of vegetable massaman curry, a bowl of organic red-brown rice and a mango-banana yogurt shake.
I just returned from one of my favorite places in all of Bangkok. There is an old fort on the river’s edge. At the end of the day, it for me, is the place to be. A mix of folks down there but mostly locals. Everyone enjoying the cool breezes coming off the water, kids running and playing, the police set up large speakers which play Thai ballads. Big sun breaking through the dark, moisture-rich clouds and through the haze, it’s fire orange. Long tail boats ferry passengers and students to and fro. It’s a very romantic spot too. Young Thais flirt and gossip. Some couples, other small groups of just girls or just boys.
At six o’clock each night, the part of the park along the river seems to spontaneously convert into a high-energy aerobics studio. Old Thai country music morphs into electronic rave remixed hip shakin’ sweat music. The teacher has a headset mic that she will use to give instruction and to help syncopate movement with the music’s beat.
Behind everyone is the old fort, lit from below. It’s white wash has faded quite a bit since the last time I remember it and the natural dark black color of the old concrete beneath it emerges and runs down the walls. It’s actually more striking this way and I think I prefer it like this.
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